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« Last post by Tom on March 18, 2026, 08:57:11 pm »
I swapped the PCB from a working switch to the one that stopped working and switch works fine - guess a bad PCB !
From what I saw a replacement PCB is unavailable on Lionel parts site
Found one at Trainz that has same # imprinted on PCB so I am hoping that works!
Tom
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« Last post by Tom on March 18, 2026, 09:52:54 am »
I purchased the switch used. After months of working fine, I can no longer control switch using remote toggle.
switch is powered from track
Indicator light on switch works C No light on remote toggle and it no longer activates switch direction
it is not a “command” switch
I swapped out remote toggle to another remote switch that I have and it worked fine - I also tested for continuity from terminal block for wires from remote toggle to the PCB and continuity tested fine
I place train car on out track and switch automatically switched rail from straight to out so motor turning switch seems to be working
Not sure where to continue from here
Thinking about swapping PCB from working remote switch to rule out PCB
Apprecite any suggestions/ recommendations for fix
Tom
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« Last post by mtnman1 on March 16, 2026, 09:02:50 am »
Gary If you are still wanting to rebuild your 8111 DT&I Switcher here are the part numbers you were looking for.
Parts for Diesel Switcher with manual or 2 position reverse Complete Motor Truck =#8010-100
2 position E-Unit = #102-1 Commutator brushes = #8040-150 Drive Gear = #8010-116 Pinion Gear (2X) = #8010-117 Worm Wheel = #8010-115 Axle Bearings = #8010-118 Hope this helps
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« Last post by mtnman1 on March 15, 2026, 07:38:10 pm »
Hi Gary I see this post is over a month old now, but I will try to help you if I can. The 6-8111 Came with a "Select-able" Reverse lever. I have an 8111 myself. It was a bit of a clunker when I picked it up. What I did was put a 2 position E-unit in it. I don't know what number it was, I just had one laying around from an old post war alco engine and soldered it in. Might have been something like a #101-1. 2 position, short lever. I just can't say exactly. Before you start you might want to look for an exploded drawing of the 8111 and get all the part numbers you need. I think I had one around somewhere but not sure where it is anymore. As far as the nylon Gears, they are very prone to wear when put under heavy load. There are replacement gears for it. It takes a bit of work to do, but if you like that part of it, then it's ok. You may need a wheel puller, not sure. You might find a whole motor truck for it somewhere too like on e-bay or Trainz.com. and change the whole thing out. The cost may be a bit much depending. I would run it for now with light loads and not pull heavy grades under load. Lubricate it according to the instructions. You might be able to find an entire working chassis and motor for it too. Swap the shell. Brushes for the motor and all that can be found at Trainz.com or Ebay.
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« Last post by Aentveditor on March 07, 2026, 02:29:10 pm »
Hello I have a pre war lionel train paper weight from early 1900's for sale. One sold not to long ago for $600 plus. I am looking to sell it.
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« Last post by WestPAKid on March 02, 2026, 06:37:34 pm »
I was gifted a Lionel 313 Bascule Bridge for my birthday. I cleaned it up and straightened it out. The motor works fine. I am having trouble getting the mechanical linkages from the 3rd reduction gear shaft to the bridge axel and to the far tower cam. I also do not have the spring tension right. I am looking for someone who knows the correct orientation of the cams and axel tabs or has a picture of them in the proper positions. It is harder than it looks.
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« Last post by mtnman1 on February 08, 2026, 11:12:59 pm »
Also Your brother may have put a new horn setup in it using the rear bracket too so look at it carefully. See if that is the case. If there is a different battery connection other than the original D cell one, (Say a 9 Volt one) its likely a modification.
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« Last post by mtnman1 on February 08, 2026, 11:08:53 pm »
It's a 2343 Postwar Santa Fe F3. One screw in the bottom front, 2 screws in the bottom back and the shell comes off. If your brother installed a replacement horn You will have look at the installation, trace the connections and see how he did it. Look for corrosion, broken wires, battery damage ect.... If, it's the original 2343 horn setup and the horn itself If its still there, it will be above the rear motor on a raised bracket.. There is also a relay that it connects to as well as additional wiring. . Sometimes the copper contact on the relay corrodes and stops the horn, Sometimes a dead battery left in the engine for years causes damage to the Battery holder compartment or it is just plain corroded. The horn itself may be oxidized a bit and not vibrating. Don't take it apart! Read up on how to do it.......The little tabs holding the cover on will likely break off if you don't and you will never get it back together so that it works without replacing the cover. See which horn setup is in the engine
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« Last post by Gary M on February 07, 2026, 09:19:20 am »
Hello. I got this train when I was a youngster. It has been stored for quite some time. My grandson is taking an interest in trains so I thought I would fire it back up. One thing I want to do is add an e-unit to it. Can someone please suggest which unit will fit best? I am good with soldering and also building a mount for it. Also, I noticed the smaller plastic gears between the motor drive and the wheels are worn. Are there spares that I can purchase for these? These gears will not last much longer. And another question is can you tell me where to purchase new brushes and what size?
Thanks for all. I am excited about getting back into this hobby after over 40 years!
Gary
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« Last post by John Bull on January 31, 2026, 05:50:09 pm »
I am writing from England as a first timer to the Lionel forum. I have a couple of questions that I hope your combined wisdom can answer.
I have inherited my Great-Grandfathers Lionel trains, although I have previously played with them as a child many decades ago. My Great Grandfather was the council transport manager in an English town in the 1920/30's, with responsibility for their electric tramways. Perhaps he had a leaning towards electric traction as he had a 150, 254, and a 256; all being electric-outline locomotives.
I wanted to buy a few extra pre-war carriages etc. to add to what I have and give me enough to display in a case. I have bought a copy of "Lionel Trains Standard of the world" and "Lionel, prewar O gauge, volume1". I would buy more Lionel reference books, but they are rare in England, and the cost of postage from the USA is often more than the cost of the book. The value guides probably aren't a lot of use here.
Is there a particular book I should get as a guide to Lionel prewar O-gauge?
I recently bought at auction a set of 254, 610, 610, 612 (8-window) carriages. My book says these should have type V or VII trucks, but these have type II trucks (without journal boxes). Is this to be expected (but my book is out of date), or perhaps an example of obsolete stock being used-up on export trains?
I also bought at auction: latch coupler 1630, 1630, 1631 carriages in Tuscan with black roof and observation veranda. As these colours aren't in the book, I assumed they would be a rough repaint in later life, but when I received them the paint quality is very high. Either someone took great care to dismantle them etc. or there is something odd about them. Have these carriages ever been reproduced in more recent times?
Any comments would be appreciated. Thank you.
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help to identify
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July 11, 2026, 10:42:37 am
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Re: Lionchief Dinsey 50th ann general no sound or smoke..
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