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Author Topic: model train repair / diagnosing  (Read 782 times)

payling

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model train repair / diagnosing
« on: November 06, 2017, 03:28:59 pm »
Hi all,

First time to forums and new to model trains...

I inherited a box with an old O gauge train set from a family member. My family member thinks the locomotive is broken because he couldn't get the set running.

Having no experience at all with model trains I decided to see if I could get it going...

As a quick test I hooked up the transformer to a single piece of track and set the locomotive on it. The transformer's green light glowed and I could hear an slight audible buzz when adjusting the throttle? levers. The locomotive did not budge...

Trouble shooting thus far...
  • Used fine grit sand paper to clean rails + locomotive contacts to ensure clean contact points.
  • Verified connection between transformer terminals and rail by multimeter. Common is going to outer rails and positive to inner.
  • Lubed locomotive gears using WD-40.

None of this seemed to help.


I attempted to disassemble the locomotive to look for any obvious faults. I removed the casing to find a missing screw and some broken plastic pieces on the outer shell of the motor casing. Looks like someone attempted to get in here before... I wasn't able to dig further because I can't figure out how to remove the wheels.

Any input is appreciated... What can I do?

Lionel Transformer type-zw
Lionel 1001 Scout - The engine casing says 1001 but google says the  locomotive shell that goes over 1001s are plastic.... mine is metal... so I don't know?  ???







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TrainLarry

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Re: model train repair / diagnosing
« Reply #1 on: November 06, 2017, 09:29:49 pm »
The Scout motors that Lionel made, including the one you have, were not really made to repair. Once the plastic casing is broken, that's about it for the motor.

Even with an intact casing, getting all the internal pieces to stay in proper position while putting the casing halves together took 3 hands.

As for getting the wheels off, you will need to either drive the axles out of the wheels with a punch, or use a wheel puller. I tried both, resulting in broken casings. The plastic is very brittle.

The 2034-100 metal motor is a replacement for the plastic motor in the early Scout engines.
http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/cd/locos%5Cloc2034a.pdf

Larry
« Last Edit: November 06, 2017, 09:31:40 pm by TrainLarry »

payling

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Re: model train repair / diagnosing
« Reply #2 on: November 07, 2017, 10:00:21 am »
Larry,

Taking the Scout motor apart sounds a bit too difficult for me... Disappointing.

I decided to order suggested motor and required parts. I'll let you know how the install goes, hopefully I'll have a running locomotive!

Thanks for your help Larry!

Vince53

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Re: model train repair / diagnosing
« Reply #3 on: August 31, 2022, 12:12:50 pm »
If I may make a friendly suggestion:

WD-40 is not a lubricant, although it is often used as one. It helps dissolve grease, remove dirt, and remove rust. Obviously, this will help a machine run better. But it is not designed as a lubricant.

 

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