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Messages - Sam Mamish
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« on: December 24, 2022, 07:55:27 pm »
Oh, dear. Not one of those. Anytime you have remotes like that, no idea. So, is this "full track power and use the remote"?
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« on: December 23, 2022, 10:02:33 pm »
Oh, boy. I have a whole lot of #1 gauge. We tried Lionel G early on. The last "powered" chassis were dug out and given away this past summer. Turd? Oh, yes.
The second car powers it? Strange.
Drivers are bad, gunk up quickly. Yours have brushes that rub on the back of the tires? Q-tips and lighter fluid.
Is there a plug between second car and locomotive?
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« on: December 17, 2022, 07:05:59 pm »
so.....should have a swing away cover on bottom of fuel tank. Takes a "D" cell, if I remember. I hate the horns and have disabled/removed them all. Corrosion.....put the engine away with a battery installed, it leaks, massive corrosion. Clean and sand battery contact points and try again
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« on: July 07, 2022, 08:14:16 pm »
Pre-war, latch couplers, trucks. Missing the dump body. Probably a 659. Without body, not much value.
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« on: April 11, 2013, 06:25:05 pm »
See the part number? Visible on the youtube version.. OU812...Oh, you ate one too? Same
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« on: April 11, 2013, 06:22:15 pm »
No choice for both! In three rail, I use steam and first generation diesels. Nothing newer than early Geeps of F units. Plants me right in late 40's early 50's. Sam
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« on: February 18, 2013, 12:05:31 am »
I like that. I seem to recall seeing that in person.....on tee vee....but we didn't have a colour set until 15 years later, so it was in black and white! Sam
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« on: February 07, 2013, 12:01:29 am »
On the 0 stuff, analog. The 3-rail has a memory-type walkaround (tethered), start running, unplug, keeps doing what it was doing while you walk to the next box and plug back in. In another scale/gauge, I have been using exclusively radio control, battery power for 20 years. The earliest radios still function in the locomotives they were installed in just fine. I have moved almost 100% to NiMH batteries from NiCads. I get 3-9 hours on a charge, depending on MAH rating of the batteries and the load on same. I have sound now in, oh, over half of them. Had to do it for business reasons (to show how it works), but I prefer to run the volume all the way down when I run. You can hear if the locomotive has any issues that way, tighten what needs to be tightened, oil what's dry, before it fails. Sam
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« on: February 06, 2013, 11:54:10 pm »
Inherited a Lionel set early 50's, still have it and my dad's trains from the 20's. Still run. Sam
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« on: February 06, 2013, 06:35:03 pm »
I had to do a double take. 70 years old, but I see trains from about 1949....doesn't make any sense, thinks I......oh, wait, I'm about that old...yeah, makes sense now! Dave (nice trains)
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« on: February 03, 2013, 08:21:39 pm »
My "mental health" hobby while in business was restoring vintage H0. I have a fair amount......three Version 2 Mantua Mikes, a Mantua 0-4-0 shifter (last new engine I ever bought in H0, in 1970), three Varney 2-8-0 "Old Lady" consolidations, a Varney Super Mikado (1949 and earlier), bunches of Varney metal F-3's, English 0-4-0 shifter, MDC 0-6-0T, couple of Mantua Boosters, Athearn Dual Geared Geep, Mantua 4-8-0 and General. Varney metal box and reefers, English coaches, lots of cardboard side cars, wood cars....Mantua couplers.
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« on: February 03, 2013, 07:15:30 pm »
Going a long way back in the memory banks, here. On the Scout units, the recommendation was to bend the coupler down enough to swing the truck 180 degrees, and using a conversion coupler (standard replacement coupler for a PT-1 style truck), lay it up and bend the tabs over the axles. I think I remember the Scout couplers were cost saving to allow lower retail pricing of the sets.
I just went and checked my Greenberg's from 1978, page 665 shows how to do it. 480-25 is the part number for the coupler, probably changed, any of the usual suspects should have it. Ask for the "tab coupler", has a tab sticking out the side. You can do them all at once, or one now, two next time, two next time....does an adaptor car first, then a full car, full car, until you're done. There is even a way to do it with Box couplers, which I bhave done, and still have on my railroad. Sam
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« on: February 03, 2013, 07:05:26 pm »
My name is Sam. 'nam era vet, VFW, been into Lionel for a long, long time. I still repair Lionel for friends locally. I have a 3-rail layout in the basement. Don't do any of the Command Control stuff, just the ZW and a 1033.
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Re: Where is Reversing Gear on Santa Fe Diesel?
by aaganz
January 11, 2026, 05:18:44 pm
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Horn Operation in Santa Fe diesel??
by aaganz
January 11, 2026, 05:16:32 pm
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Battery powered train
by MikeW101
January 07, 2026, 04:36:07 pm
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Re: Where is Reversing Gear on Santa Fe Diesel?
by aaganz
December 29, 2025, 12:18:24 pm
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Re: Where is Reversing Gear on Santa Fe Diesel?
by aaganz
December 28, 2025, 08:54:05 am
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